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Seared Halibut with Ramps and Chives
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Herbs provide a flavor pop in Rob Evans’ cooking.

PORTLAND, MAINE – “Every dish needs a flavor
pop,” says Rob Evans, chef and co-owner of Hugo’s in Portland,
Maine. Often that pop comes from fresh herbs in his kitchen. “I
probably use more herbs than the typical chef. They’re a huge focus
in our food. I love them for their aromatic qualities and the
freshness they add to food,” he says.

Evans admits he’s obsessed with finding the freshest local
ingredients and turning them into dishes that admittedly stretched
the palates of his diners in 2000 when he and partner Nancy Pugh
bought a tiny restaurant here named Hugo’s. “I was in a blue-collar
town trying to do really great food. I had to go slow at first and
get customers to trust me.”

The trust came, and so did reputation. Food & Wine magazine
named Evans to its Best New Chefs list in 2004. Today, Hugo’s draws
a regular local crowd as well as fine food aficionados from all
over New England. They come to sample appetizers like Cucumber
Panna Cotta with Maine Peekytoe Crab and Fines Herbes Salad or Duck
Salad with Red Bell Pepper and Lavender Vinaigrette. As a main
course, they might try Juniper-Cured Venison or Seared Halibut with
Ramps and Chives. Diners who opt for his multi-course tasting menu
sometimes start their meal with a lemon verbena soda and a
selection of snacks, including potato chips seasoned with herb
salt. Throughout his menu, Evans uses herbs in supporting roles to
enhance and enliven the flavor of his food.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT HERBS

At any given time, Evans has a dozen or more herbs in his
kitchen. Some, like basil, thyme, rosemary, chives and tarragon,
are commonplace. Others are not as well known. For example, Evans
uses burnet, an herb with a cucumberlike taste, to boost the flavor
of cucumber dishes or provide a cucumber flavor in crab and lobster
salads. He likes anise hyssop, which has a flavor somewhere between
tarragon and mint, with lamb and duck or in dessert sorbets.

In spring and summer, Evans grows many of his own herbs. “If I
can’t buy what I want, I grow it,” he says. Generally, he uses his
own herbs, picked fresh, for garnishes. He usually purchases the
herbs he’s going to chop and use in cooking.

While most herbs go with almost anything, selecting just the
right herb for a particular dish takes “years of experience,” Evans
believes. “Herbs really can change the essence of a dish and you
can overuse them.” He cautions against using an herb twice in the
same meal. “Don’t make a chowder with thyme and then use thyme in
another dish,” he says. Herbs also should be combined with care.
“Tarragon and thyme never go together. Tarragon is sweet and thyme
is earthy.” Basil and rosemary also should not be combined.
“Cilantro,” he says, “is overused and shouldn’t be combined with
anything. Parsley, on the other hand, adds a freshness to dishes
and is very versatile.”

When using herbs in cooking, consider their strength. “Sage,
thyme and rosemary are strongly flavored herbs and go well with
roasts and root vegetables. Basil, chives and cilantro go better
with lighter foods. Also, remember,” he adds, “that herbs should be
the last thing that happens in a dish. Add them toward the end of
cooking. Let the dish cook. Taste it and add more herbs if
necessary. If you hate chopping herbs, tie the whole stalks in
cheesecloth and add to the pot that way.”

BUYING AND STORING HERBS

Fresh is best when it comes to herbs. Evans only uses dried
herbs as a last resort, and then usually herbs he’s dried himself.
“If the herbs in your garden are starting to look a little wilted,
pick them and dry them in the microwave,” he says. “Set the timer
for three minute intervals and dry them until they’re crisp, but
still brightly colored.”

When buying fresh herbs, avoid those that look wilted or have
stem rot or soft spots. “Those little packages are a rip-off,”
Evans says. “It’s better to buy them in bunches. They’re usually
fresher.”

Do not wash herbs before storing. “The little bit of dirt on
them will help them stay fresh longer.” Most herbs should be stored
in the refrigerator in plastic bags. Basil rots quickly in plastic
and should be stored in a barely damp paper towel and used
promptly.

The best fresh herbs come from your own garden. Even in winter,
you can grow them inside in a sunny window. “We have no natural
light in our kitchen, so we can’t grow herbs. But, I do grow
micro-greens, like sprouts, mustard greens, cress and others.
They’ll grow under florescent lights and can be used for garnishing
in the same way you use herbs.”


Hugo’s, at 88 Middle Street in Portland, Maine, is open for
dinner Tuesday thru Saturday. For reservations and information
about Rob Evans’ nightly prix fixe menu, tasting menus and bar
menu, call (207)774-8538.

RECIPES FROM ROB EVANS OF HUGO’S

Cucumber Panna Cotta with Maine Peekytoe Crab and Fines
Herbes Salad

Serves 4

Peekytoe crab is an Atlantic rock or sand crab favored by chefs
for its pink meat and sweet, delicate flavor. Fresh, unpasteurized
Maine crab, stone crab or Dungeness crab may be substituted. Salmon
roe may be substituted for trout roe.

4 medium cucumbers (to make 13/4 cup cucumber juice )
3 sheets gelatin, bloomed
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
11/4 cup crème fraîche
2 tablespoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Salt to taste
1/2 cup Peekytoe crab
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon lime juice
1/8 cup trout roe
Fresh tarragon, chervil, parsley and chive blossoms

Thoroughly wash cucumbers to remove waxy residue, or peel. Chop
cucumbers and liquefy in juicer, blender or food processor. Strain
and measure out 13/4 cups.
To bloom gelatin sheets, soak in cold water for 5 to 7 minutes.
Remove and gently squeeze out excess water.
Gently warm cucumber juice in a saucepan. Add rice wine vinegar,
crème fraîche, sugar, cayenne pepper, salt and gelatin to cucumber
juice. Strain well.
Pour mixture into four rame-kins or glasses and chill until
set.
Season crab with lemon and lime juice, salt and pepper.
To serve: Divide crab among the four ramekins. Sprinkle with roe
and garnish with herbs.

Seared Halibut with Ramps and Chives

Serves 4

Evans prepares his own chive oil for this recipe. It should be
made the day before and refrigerated overnight.

1 bunch chives, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup canola oil
2 ramps or scallions
Four 3-ounce portions halibut
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 lemon, quartered

Prepare chive oil by placing chives in blender with oil and
processing on high speed until oil feels hot. Place oil in plastic
container and store in refrigerator overnight. Strain oil before
using.
Blanch ramps in salted boiling water until tender. Drain and set
aside.
Heat a little canola oil in sauté pan on high heat. Season halibut
with salt and pepper. Sauté, turning once, until golden brown on
both sides.
Serve with ramps and lemon quarters. Drizzle with chive oil.

Puffed Potato Chips with Rosemary Salt

These chips, seasoned with herb salt, are a house specialty at
Hugo’s.

1 tablespoon melted butter
Parchment paper
1 pound Russet potatoes (medium to large size)
1 bunch rosemary
Kosher salt
1 quart canola oil for frying

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Butter parchment paper. Cut potato
as thin as possible on a mandolin slicer or with a vegetable
slicer. Lay chips on parchment and cover with a second sheet and
bake until evenly browned, about 10 to 15 minutes.
Remove chips from parchment paper and let dry on cooling rack
until crisp.
Place rosemary on a plate lined with a paper towel and microwave
at one-minute intervals until dry. Grind with a spice grinder and
mix with equal amounts of salt.
Heat canola oil to 350 degrees and fry dried chips for 5 seconds.
Season with rosemary salt.

Parchment Baked Maine Cod

Serves 4

Although this recipe is long and seems complicated, it can be
made in stages. The salt cod must be prepared a day ahead. You also
can make the potato broth in advance. Be sure you have parchment
paper (waxed paper may be substituted) and butcher’s twine on
hand.

Also called the “captain’s cut,” cod loin is the thickest part
of a boneless, skinless fillet.

4 ounces salt cod, cut into 1/2- inch dice
8 thinly sliced applewood-smoked bacon strips
1 leek, cut into 1/2- inch dice
1 garlic bulb, peeled and sliced thin
2 shallots, peeled and sliced thin
2 bay leaves
1 cup white wine
1 teaspoon champagne vinegar
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1 medium-size russet potato, peeled
6 whole thyme sprigs
2 tablespoons crème fraîche
4 medium size sunchokes, peeled, steamed and coarsely
chopped
Salt and pepper
1 pound center-cut skinless cod loin
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves for garnish

To prepare the salt cod: Rinse for 30 minutes under cold water.
Cover with cold water and store in refrigerator overnight. Rinse
again and set aside to drain.

To prepare applewood smoked bacon chips: Place bacon on
parchment-lined sheet pan. Top with additional piece of parchment
and weight with additional sheet pan. Bake at 325 degrees until
golden brown. Carefully transfer onto paper towel to drain. Save
rendered bacon fat and set aside. To make potato broth: Put leeks,
1 teaspoon bacon fat, garlic, shallots, bay leaf, white wine,
vinegar and crushed red pepper in a 2-quart sauce pot. Simmer on
low until almost dry. Add 4 cups of water and turn heat up to a
boil. Simmer for 30 minutes; strain. Return strained liquid to pan.
Recipe may be made ahead to this point. Cover and refrigerate
broth.

When ready to prepare dish, heat broth to simmering and add salt
cod. Simmer for 30 minutes. Pull salt cod out with slotted spoon
and set aside. Grate raw potato with a cheese grater into the
broth. Add thyme sprigs and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain potato
broth and return to a clean pan. Add crème fraîche, salt cod,
sunchokes, salt and pepper to taste. Set aside in pan to warm
later.

To prepare cod loin: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Lay out
parchment paper and lightly brush with olive oil. Sprinkle cod with
lemon zest, salt and white pepper. Place cod loin on lower middle
half of parchment paper and roll up tight. Tie loin every 2 inches
with butcher’s twine to secure. Score paper and slice into 4
portions, keeping 2 ties per portion. Place cod portions cut side
up in a 9- x 12-inch baking tray. Top each piece with a tablespoon
of butter, salt and pepper. Add 1/2 cup of water to the bottom of
the tray and bake for approximately 20 minutes until firm. Cut
strings and remove paper.

To serve: Spoon 4 ounces of potato broth into 4 bowls. Drizzle
with olive oil and thyme leaves. Place cod loin on the plate and
top with a crispy bacon chip.


An enthusiastic cook, freelance writer Suzanne Hall keeps her
kitchen stocked with fresh and dried herbs.

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