Seasonal Soups and Stews

At this time of year, as we hunker down for winter, thoughts turn to hearty, seasonal soups, savory stews, and flavorful meats turned fork tender by slow braising with liquids. The seasonings are what make these recipes from every corner of the world so delicious and different.

Though we are blessed in Texas with having most herbs fresh in the garden year round, we tend to use the heavier, more robust flavors during this season. This is simply because they hold up to the long cooking times of most winter dishes. Bay laurel, rosemary, sage, and thyme are all old herbal friends that find their way into endless pots of soup. The strong flavors of these Mediterranean natives are varied by using the seasonings in different proportions and in combination with parsley and other herbs.

6 Seasonal Soups and Stews: Try these favorite recipes and get ready for a good dose of twenty-first century comfort food that’s guaranteed to chase away the cold-weather blues.

• Hilltop Cream of Chicken Soup with Fines Herbs
• Hungarian Cabbage Soup
• Festival Hill Vegetable Stock
• Savory Turkey and Rice with Thyme, Sage, Winter Savory and Bay
• Savory Vegetable Stew with Lentils, Sweet Potatoes and Kale
• Surprise Winter Vegetable Soup

Soup-Making Tips

The more delicate spearmint, dill, and lemon thyme give a lift to spinach or carrot soups that taste good all year long, but at least one or two pungently flavored herbs can balance strong root vegetables or greens such as kale and hold up to meats, especially smoked ham or sausage.

In addition to our favorite Mediterranean leafy herbs, the seeds of the parsley family (such as caraway, coriander, cumin, and fennel) play an important role in soups and stews. Used either whole or ground, herbal seeds provide an intense and complex flavor that you don’t get from the foliage alone. Try toasting the seeds in a dry skillet before grinding them for a rich, nutty flavor. Sweet spices such as cinnamon, clove, and allspice add another layer of flavor, particularly to meat dishes or curried vegetables.

In addition, many other ingredients act as seasonings: citrus peels and juice brighten and lift flavors; aromatic vegetables such as onions, celery, and mushrooms add rich flavor, especially when browned first; fats such as butter or olive oil and strong cheeses provide richness and texture; nuts of all types act as thickeners; sweeteners such as honey and brown sugar are used to mellow tart ingredients; and don’t forget chiles–in their endless variety of colors, shapes, and flavors–to give a little kick to any dish. All play a part in creating what our mouth and nose perceive as the final taste.

Soup Starters

To prepare super flavorful soups, and many other dishes for that matter, most recipes begin by making stock or broth (terms used interchangeably by cooks). We have a vegetable stock recipe at right, but we also like to use a chicken or turkey base, and our method is so simple, you don’t need a recipe. We use no vegetables or seasonings, only meaty bones covered with about 2 inches of cold water; chicken backs or turkey wings are our first choice. No onion, celery, or carrot, no herbs, and no salt. Granted, those ingredients, along with meat and bones, will result in a well-flavored broth, but we prefer to keep on hand this versatile, neutral-flavored stock to which we can later add seasonings and vegetables.

A neutral-flavored, mild poultry stock is useful for other meat dishes too, especially pork, veal, and seafood. It must be used within two to three days or frozen. Fat should be skimmed away from cooled broth before using or freezing. We also occasionally make beef or veal stock for specific recipes, using the time-honored method of browning the bones with aromatic vegetables, but we find fewer uses for this type of stock in our kitchen.

For a guide to seasoning stock for flavorful soup, refer to the chart on page 41. Generally, for 10 to 12 cups of soup, use 3 to 4 tablespoons of chopped, fresh herbs (one-third to one-half less for dried); this can be a single flavor, but we prefer a mixture of mild and robust herbs. Or for easy preparation, simply drop ten to twelve sprigs of fresh herbs into the cooking liquids (4 to 6 inches long with woody stems removed). The leaves will drop off as they cook, then the stems can be removed with tongs or a slotted spoon before serving. Use 1 to 2 teaspoons of ground herbal seeds such as coriander, cumin, fennel, or sweet ground spices such as allspice, cinnamon, or clove. With salt and pepper and the aromatic vegetables in these hearty dishes, you will create a flavorful, filling meal.

It’s impossible to make a mistake as long as you use a light touch and don’t overpower the dish. That is one advantage of using fresh herbs; it’s easier to overuse dried herbs.

Seasoning Your Favorite Broth

Select one or more of the following seasonings for 10 to 12 cups of broth.

• 1 1/2 to 2 cups: Aromatic vegetables such as onion, celery, mushrooms or bell peppers
• 3 to 4 tablespoons: Chopped fresh herbs–single herb or mixture of mild and robust (substitute 1 to 2 tablespoons dried herbs)
• 10 to 12 sprigs: Fresh herbs–single herb or mixture of mild and robust (remove woody stems)
• 1 to 2 teaspons: Ground seeds such as coriander, cumin or fennel
• 1/2 to 1 teaspoon: Ground spices such as allspice, cinnamon or cloves
• 2 large cloves: Garlic, peeled and mashed or roasted
• 1/4 cup chopped: Fresh shallot
• 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon: Ground hot pepper (two or three times more if using fresh, hot chiles)
• 1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons: Salt (assuming unsalted broth is used)
• 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoons: Freshly ground pepper
• 4 to 6 slices: Fresh lemon, lime or orange (or chopped zest and/or juice)
• 3 to 4 tablespoons: Herbal vinegar

Madalene Hill and Gwen Barclay are a mother/daughter team living, gardening and cooking at the Festival Institute in Round Top, Texas. Madalene serves as the curator of the gardens and Gwen is the director of Food Service.