Kitchen Table: Border Pesto Sauce

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Makes about 2 1/2 cups

Cilantro replaces parsley—and green squash seeds replace pine nuts—to give this pesto sauce a Texas tang.

• 2 tablespoons green squash seeds
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 clove garlic
• 2 cups cilantro leaves, packed
1/2 cup olive oil
• 2 tablespoons grated cotija or ­Romano cheese
• 1 tablespoon crema agria, or 1 tablespoon crème fraîche, or 1/2 tablespoon yogurt and 1/2 tablespoon sour cream mixed until smooth

1. Pulse the squash seeds and salt in a food processor until powdered. Add the garlic and cilantro; pulse. With the processor running, drizzle in the olive oil.

2. Pour the cilantro mixture into a mixing bowl. Stir in the cheese and crema agria until smooth. Serve over pasta or gnocchi.

—Bill Moran, San Diego, Texas