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Ask Our Experts > Organic Gardening

June 19, 2008

Nature’s plan for removing excess nitrogen is to harness the hunger of plants, and squash is often used as a “mop-up” crop in soil that is holding high levels of nitrogen. After a few weeks, your squash may exhaust the nitrogen supply and produce a good crop, so you may want to wait to see what happens.

Your beans’ prognosis is less promising because beans remove little nitrogen from the soil. With abundant nitrogen to fuel rampant growth of the vines, they are likely to produce a small crop very late in the season, and the soil will still be holding excess nitrogen. To set things right, put heavy feeding crops like cabbage, broccoli or spinach to work in the fall, or mulch over the site through winter, and plant it with sweet corn next year.

As for emergency measures, gypsum is sometimes suggested as a cure for this problem, but research shows that it has no special talents for dissolving nitrates and other salts. As a last-ditch effort, you can try root-pruning the plants by pushing a spade into the ground at a couple of points within each plant’s root zone – a trick used in flower gardening that sometimes shocks overfed plants into initiating blooms. 

Working with organic fertilizers can be confusing, because they release nutrients slowly in cold soil, which makes gardeners think their plants need more fertilizer. Then, when warming soil makes many more nutrients available, you find that you have overfed your plants. Oftentimes, grass clippings mixed into the soil provide all the nitrogen that vegetables require. In the future, you might try using only liquid organic fertilizers (such as those made from fish and seaweed) to start off beans and other legumes. When fertilizing other crops, take care never to exceed the application rates given on the package. 

Check out these articles to learn more about simple, cheap or free garden fertilizers:

A Better Way to Fertilize Your Garden

Build Better Soil with Free Organic Fertilizer

  Filet Beans  Zucchini and excessive fertilizer 

Photos of filet beans, left, and zucchini, right, by Barbara Pleasant.

5 Comments

  • Mark 7/9/2008 8:48:21 PM

    Use wood chips to wring out the excess nitrogen.The bacterial that eats the wood loves nitrogen.

  • Alice 6/27/2008 2:38:35 AM

    Oh, thank goodness other gardeners have disasters so I'm not alone. Created beds that are too "hot" and nothing will grow except tomatoes that were planted with the soil ball they came in and they are not thriving. Need help. Seedlings are exactly the same size they were when they first germinated weeks ago.

  • Marty Sage 6/26/2008 10:56:31 AM

    You can try to counteract the nitrogen by adding more Phosphorus and potassium which are used for flower and fruit production. Bone meal is a good source.

  • Barbara Pleasant 6/20/2008 12:43:53 PM

    Oh, Mary, you didn't waste your money! There are plenty of things to put into a canner besides tomatoes, and you may get more chances with them. Last year I rooted cuttings from my Romas (they root themselves) and got a second crop of canning tomatoes in September. Might be worth a try.

  • Mary 6/20/2008 10:21:51 AM

    As a first-time gardener with high expectations and a little too much self-esteem, I was THRILLED when my tomato plants which I successfully managed to grow from SEED began thriving in my poor excuse for a bed... Until I read this article and it answered every question I had...Why were my tomato plants HUGE, dark green and beautiful, but had not a single bloom? While the one tomato plant I have in a container had a better head start, grew faster, bigger, and even had the first blooms and tomatoes, is now a midget, with 8 blooms, two green, mutated Roma tomatoes, and yellowing stunted foliage... The different situations cannot compare.. There must be too much nitrogen in the soil, and the container is too small and I wasted $60 on canning equipment I probably won't even get to use!!!

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